Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Tsugaru-nuri: Traditional Japanese Lacquerware from Aomori

NOTE: I have one more tsugaru-nuri post to make in the future, but this is the main one!

My personal tsugaru-nuri goods (The chopsticks were crafted by myself)

A few months ago I attended a local cultural workshop in which I learned and participated in the process of crafting tsugaru-nuri hashi (津軽塗箸), or "Tsugaru lacquered chopsticks". What a cool experience it was! The unique procedures and techniques required to produce tsugaru-nuri crafted goods come from the traditional Tsugaru culture of Aomori Prefecture, so it was a terrific opportunity to learn about both the craft and the local culture. It also inspired me to not only share what I've learned, but also gain a better understanding of the culture as a whole.

Regions of Aomori: Tsugaru and Nanbu

So what is "Tsugaru" anyway? Well, Tsugaru and Nanbu are the two main cultural-historical regions of Aomori Prefecture. Tsugaru-chihō (津軽地方地方, Tsugaru "region") occupies the west and central area, whereas Nanbu-chi (南部地方, Nanbu "region") takes up most of the eastern side including the Shimokita Penninsula. Since each were different political domains in the Edo Period (17th-19th century), each developed distinct local cultures influencing language, music, art, and more.


Map Showing Tsugaru and Nanbu Regions of Aomori Prefecture

Personally, I've been most exposed to Tsugaru culture since Aomori City falls into this region and I lived there for years. And since the local art tradition of Tsugaru-nuri is so common, it didn’t take me long to see it.

What is Tsugaru-nuri (lacquerware)?

Tsugaru-nuri is a special craft/paining technique applied to a wide variety of lacquerware goods; most common are chopsticks, bowls, plates, and things of that nature. But nowadays, artists have gone much further than this to include less traditional objects like smart phone cases, jewelry, and keychains, just to name a few. The craft has numerous styles, including 4 special techniques which can also be expressed in various colors, patterns, and glosses.

Learning the Local Craft for yourself


It takes many years of practice to master the craft, but there are still opportunities for everyday people to learn about process and even participate. For a long time I was unaware of these opportunities, so when I finally heard that I could book a lesson to learn how to do it, I picked up the phone and made a reservation. I went to a museum called Nebuta-Mura (ねぷた村, "Nebuta Village") in Hirosaki, located about one hour southwest from Aomori City. 


Nebuta-Mura, a museum in Hirosaki

If you are interested, you can get more specific information about the museum from the following links: Japan-Guide (English) / Official Website (Japanese). It's worth noting that there are occasionally other opportunities elsewhere in the prefecture, so keep your eyes open if you are living in the area or about the travel there.

Making Tsugaru-nuri Chopsticks

The best way to learn about the actual process is to go and try it for yourself! And to be honest, I don't want to make this post too much longer. But here's some pictures of my experience to get some sense of it, I certainly hope this inspires others to try it sometime!

From start to finish, the steps in crafting tsugaru-nuri chopsticks

Much of the process involves using lightweight sandpapers

A great experience, please give it a try if you have the chance!