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| Kanachime horses grazing near the Cape Shiriya lighthouse |
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| Trip path, by train and bicycle |
The cape is accessed by a single road that wraps around the coast. Approaching the area, visitors must pass through an automated gate which only allows entry from early morning to late afternoon, and from April to November every year. The scenic road is flanked by the coastline on one side and a mixture of grassy plains and wooded areas on the other. The landmark most people initially stop at is a historic white lighthouse at the very edge of the peninsula. There's a small parking lot here as well as a small shop offering small souvenirs and some simple cooked meals. During my visit, several of the wild horses were grazing in this area and could easily be approached.
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| Left: Cape Shiriya lighthouse; Right: this youngster keep following me and loved being pet |
The old lighthouse is quite famous for several achievements and fisherman stories. Built in 1876, it was the first western-style lighthouse in the Tohoku region of Japan, as well as the first in the whole country to feature a fog bell and later a fog horn. It was also the first to have an electric power generator. During World War II, the lighthouse was severely damaged and the attendant was killed in a bombing by the US Navy. In the following year, Japanese fisherman still claimed to see light coming from the lighthouse, despite the light room being completely destroyed and inaccessible. But the ghost stories were put to rest by 1951 when the structure was repaired and went back into operation.
The horses found here are a unique breed called kandachime (寒立馬). From what I've read, they nearly became extinct in the mid-1990's when their numbers dwindled to single digits. But thankfully they have since recovered to about 40, thanks to a protection policy put in place. Shiriyazaki may be the only place in the world where these horses exist.
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| Adult kandachime female grazing |
Kandachime (lit., "horse standing in the cold") are a stocky breed with thick, strong legs and large bellies--bred to survive the harsh winters in the region. I've read that these horses were originally bred at a horse ranch of the Morioka Domain (known colloquially as the Nanbu Domain) long ago, but I can't confirm this.
Despite being very large and powerful, the kandachime horses are incredibly calm and gentle. I spent hours walking around and rubbing the horses' big bellies and petting their heads. I also saw many others doing the same, including families with young children and even babies. That being said, approach them at your own risk. It's important to take care and never startle or scare them. For those less adventurous, you can certainly still enjoy them from a distance.
I recommend exploring the cape past the lighthouse, as there are more beautiful views to be seen as well as more horses hanging out in other areas. Just past the lighthouse is a nice area overlooking the ocean and some mountains in the background (see video). It's a nice place to sit and relax for awhile, and there's a good chance you'll see some horses come out of the nearby forest too. On my trip, I took the first morning train from Aomori City to Mutsu, then biked the rest of the way. The total distance biked totaled about 75km for the day, and was very doable for a day trip. But no matter how you decide to go there, Shiriyazaki is an amazing place, so it's definitely worth it as long as the weather is good.
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| Riding my bike around Shiriya |
Information / Getting there:
Public transit from Tokyo:
Departing from JR Tokyo Sta., take the JR Tohoku Shinkansen (towards Shin-Aomori) and get off at JR Hachinohe Sta. Take the Aoimori Line towards Noheji Sta. and transfer there to the JR Ominato Line (towards Ominato). Get off at Shimokita Sta. and take the Shimokita Kotsu Bus to the Mutsu Bus Terminal. Take the Shimokita Kotsu Bus (bound for Shiriya) and get off at Shiriyazaki.
Public transit from Aomori:
Departing from Aomori Sta., take the Aoimori Line towards Noheji Sta. and transfer there to the JR Ominato Line (towards Ominato). Get off at Shimokita Sta. and take the Shimokita Kotsu Bus to the Mutsu Bus Terminal. Take the Shimokita Kotsu Bus (bound for Shiriya) and get off at Shiriyazaki.
* Please check for the latest public transit info for up-to-date info and details
Hours/Cost:
April, 8:00 AM - 4:00 PM
May-November, 7:00AM - 5:00PM
* Closed December 1 - March 31
* Free
