Wednesday, January 1, 2014

The Japanese New Year

The way Japanese traditionally welcome in the new year is very different than the way most in the Western world do. I've been fortunate to experience many of these traditions and I'd to love to share some of the things I've learned along the way.

Please note that I'll refer to "the Japanese" and "Japanese people" for simplicity sake when describing the various traditions below, but I certainly recognize that other non-Japanese people (such as foreigners living in Japan) may participate and follow the same traditions.

Hatsumōde at Kushida Shrine in Fukuoka, 2012

The Japanese New Year (oshōgatsu)
New Year’s (お正月, oshōgatsu) is one of the most important times of the year in Japan. It’s filled with many old traditions which every year most Japanese continue to follow in some way or another. Special decorations and ornaments are displayed in homes and throughout town. A variety of special food is prepared and eaten during the holiday. Families gather to partake in relaxed celebrations at home. And at shrines throughout Japan, large bells ring and long lines form as people make their first shrine visit of the new year.

Decorations (okazari)
In the final weeks leading up the the new year, people start preparing by setting up decorations and ornaments in their homes, offices, and sometimes businesses or shops. There are quite a few different types and variations used, and I’ll do my best to explain them clearly:
- shimenawa (注連縄, “straw rope”): made from rice straw, purified with water, and bound into various-width ropes.
- shimekazari (注連飾り, “straw rope decoration”): a small, wreath-like decoration made from shimenawa that’s hung on the front door of a home.
- matsukazari (松飾り, “pine decoration“ ): a modest ornament made of pine branches and straw; tied to the front gate of a home. 
- kodomatsu (門松, "gate pine”): slightly more elaborate decorations that are placed on the ground and used in pairs outside of homes and businesses; consisting of pine, bamboo, and straw rope (shimenawa). 

shimekazari; muzina_shanghai/flickr
The purposes for using the four decorations above are all very similar—to purify the entrance of a place and to keep bad things away. They are also believed to welcome ancestral spirits or god (神, kami) in the new year. I think it’s also worth mentioning that the individual materials often have special meanings behind them too. For example, pine (松, matsu), bamboo (竹, take), and plum (梅, ume) all represent positive attributes like longevity, vitality, and resilience, in Japanese culture.

kagami mochitimtak/flickr
Another important decoration that used during the new year season is called kagami mochi (鏡餅, lit. “mirror mochi”). The basic parts of the decoration consist of a small stand holding two round, flat mochi (rice cakes) with a small bitter orange balanced on top. It’s said that the reason they are called “mirror” mochi is based on the round, flat shape, since ancient mirrors in Japan were round and believed to possess special powers. Today, people may display this decoration as a way to symbolize the continuity of family over many years.

New Year’s Postcards (nengajō)
People also must start to write and send out dozens of nengajō (年賀状). These are special postcards which are decorated with the new year’s zodiacal animal and written with messages expressing gratitude towards their friends, family, and colleagues. Like many customs in Japan, there is a social expectation that this be done. Last year I wrote many nengajō but it took me a very long time to do because I had to write Japanese in mistake-free and clear handwriting. However, I was so busy this year that it slipped my mind. Even though it's not my culture, I felt really guilty when I received nengajō this year without sending out any myself.

Here's a few nengajo that I received this year (2014)

To efficiently and properly deliver the sheer amount of these postcards received, the Japan Post has a special system in place to collect, organize, and hold these cards before delivering them on first few days of the new year.

New Year's Specialty Foods (osechi-ryōri)
Osechi-ryōri (おせち料理, "New Year Foods") generally come in colorful boxes called jūbako (重箱), and contain a wide variety of Japanese foods. Traditionally, women might take many hours and even several days preparing these boxes for their families to eat during New Year's. But nowadays, many people choose to simply buy ready-made boxes, which can be easily purchased from supermarkets or even convenient stores. The foods contained can vary from region to region, but some common things include fish cakes, rolled omelet, fish eggs, black soy beans, seaweed, shrimp, vegetables, and more. Also, each food has a special meaning, such as long life, prosperity, good health, etc. (Wikipedia has a good list).

Osechi; photo by apc33/Flickr (cropped)

I love the concept of osechi. You can try a huge variety of different flavors and textures in a meal that isn't too heavy nor unhealthy. The meanings for each food adds and interesting aspect to it as well. I think eating osechi during New Year's is a pretty neat experience!

New Year's Eve (ōmisoka)
What do Japanese families actually do on New Year's Eve, (ōmisoka, 大晦日)? I've never personally had the opportunity to celebrate with a Japanese family during this time, but friends have described it as basically hanging out with family and watching TV. Apparently there's a tradition of watching New Year's specials on TV, especially a singing competition called Kōhaku Uta Gassen, and Gaki no Tsukai ya Arahende (no-laughing "batsu game"). Although still very popular, I've read that viewership has dropped significantly in recent years but I'm not sure exactly why that is.

New Year's Day and First Shrine Visit (hatsumōde)
The first day of the new year is a chance for Japanese people to do the "first" of many things in the year. One of the most important things is making their first shrine visit. This custom is called hatsumōde (初詣). Many people make their visit in the first few hours of the new year, but others may come in the following few days as well.

Right after midnight on new year's day, it's common for long lines to form at popular shrines as people await to approach the front of the main building and say a short prayer for a healthy and prosperous year.

People making a short prayer at Kushida Shrine in Fukuoka

How to pray at a shrine:
1. Upon entering the shrine premises, bow in front of the main gate (torii)
2. Purify yourself by washing your hands/mouth at the temizuya (water ablution pavilion).
3. Walk to the main shrine building, and throw money (saisen) in the box and ring the bell.
4. Bow twice, clap twice, then pray to the gods in silence.
5. Bow again before leaving the main building.

Religion and cultural tradition often blend together in Japan. For this reason, I would be inclined to describe 
hatsumōde as more of a "cultural tradition" rather than a purely religious one. Most Japanese people I know or have talked to are not particularly "religious" in the Western perception of religion, but still participate in traditions like the first shrine visit. In fact, even though shrines are based in Shintoism, it's just as common for Buddhists to visit shrines and say a prayer just like anyone that follows Shintoism. To be sure, I even confirmed this point with several Japanese teachers I work with.

Lastly, I'll mention that it's also common for people to buy omikuji (御御籤, or 御神籤). These are random fortunes written on small strips of paper. Fortunes indicate to what extent their prayers may come true, ranging from being very good to very bad; they also include predictions about a number of specific aspects of a person's life. I've bought omikuji many times (it's available throughout the year) and I typically get the moderately good or slightly bad fortune. I don't remember ever getting the best or the worst. I suppose that's a good thing. Anyway, for more details there's a good wikipedia page about omikuji.